Sunday, July 27, 2008

Åland Islands in pictures

Curious signs. The uninhabited Island, before I lost my way in its wilderness

Lost in wilderness




The Mariehamn Castle on the outskirts. Nothing more than outerwalls

Beautiful view of Åland countryside from one the windows of the Castle


Glistening, sun-kissed waters.
Silver waves.

Images from the Viewing Point


Look it! The ferry 'Rosella' that I used to travel back from Mariehamn. Fun on board

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Åland - "Sweetened with an aqua hue"

Back in April, when I found out that I was going to Sweden, I started an extensive research on Iceland. Don't ask me why. I even identified a place to stay. But, soon enough I found out that Iceland was way too expensive to fit into a poor intern's budget - SEK 3800 even when you book 3 months in advance. Alas! Alas! I talked myself out of the plan and kept an eye out for other places. And that is how, as a first step towards exploring Scenic Scandinavia, which much to the amusement of a lot of Swedes, I find very exotic, I went to Åland.

Why Åland you ask? Well.. their tourism board advertised the island quite aggressively by putting up posters at most metro stations. While I stood in the escalator to either go up or down to the Underground station, all I saw was various images of http://www.visitaland.com/.

I had to look it up. And what finally drew me to the island was the post office!! Yes, you read right! It was the Post office. Why? Read on!

Though the post office was the ultimate deal clincher, the Åland Islands by themselves have some interesting facts that might intrigue you!

This little known beauty is an autonomous, Swedish-speaking, Finnish province with a German name!!! Apparently, in the days of yore(!), when political power was being transferred from Russia to Finland, Åland voted that they be ceded to Sweden. Not too kicked by this request, Finland however, made them an autonomous state, allowing them to follow their own culture and tradition, have their own government and keep Swedish as their official language. In addition, Ålanders get their own flag, their own stamps and even their own web ID!! - (.AX). And you can transact in Swedish Kroners everywhere - even in temporary stalls at open markets! What a mature way of handling land dispute! UN, are you listening? Can we have delegates from Finland and Åland visit Srilanka, Pakistan, Israel, Russia and China please??!!!

Btw, the name 'Åland' is derived from the German word "Ahavaland", meaning "land of water".

Being an overcareful (well.. sometimes) Indian gal travelling alone, I did some pro-active homework. I researched on the cheapest way to get to Mariehamn, the captial city, went one week early to check out the bus stop from where i had to take a bus to Grisselhamn. The bus-driver who gave me the instructions was impressed! 1 day before the travel, on a rainy Thursday, I went back to the bus stop and waited for the bus to Grisselhamn. As soon as it stopped, I asked the driver if they would still ply the next day, as there was to be a Stockholm-wide bus strike. He said they would still ply. Check! Impressed bus driver no. 2!

I called my host in Mariehamn, Susanne. She is the sweetest darling you can meet. She said that she would be happy to have me, inspite of the short notice and even offered to pick me up from the bus stop! Check!

Next day, on Friday evening, I board the bus to Grisselhamn. Ordinarily, it would have been a quiet ride, given the fact that Swedes follow the 'don't talk to strangers' rule diligently. But, what do you know? The girl sitting next to me, started chatting after she heard me speaking over the phone in English. She was an Ålander who was educated in South Africa. She had some real amusing stories to tell! The best one, that I never tire repeating at parties was the one where she got written permission, signed by the school principal, to allow her to come to school without a tie and jacket (the compusory school uniform) as she was from Scandinavia and the heat would kill her! Hee Hee! Funny huh? (She's now on my facebook!)

As promised, Susanne met me at the bus stop. You have no idea what it feels like to be travelling alone for the first time to a place whose language you don't speak and be met by a lovely native. Your nerves are immediately calm. Susanne had that effect on me. All the remaining apprehensions were gone when I met her family - Per, Emma and the 2 cats. They were all so easy to talk to and such loving people.

The next morning, I set out on my own. Susanne made sure I carried her address and telephone numbers.

Mariehamn isn't very huge. There is a small but modern city center, a very big library and a fancy post office. Ah yes! The post office. First of all, it is designed to look like a boutique. They sell stamps, postcards, t-shirts, sweatshirts, memorabilia and even plant seeds!! And the best part - the one that won the heart of this ardent stamp collector from India? You can make your own stamps!!! Yep!! So, if you are a narcissist, all you have to do, is give them a picture of yourself and say you want that as a stamp and you actually get it!! And it is a valid stamp that you can put on a letter and mail off! I'm not kidding! So, there I was talking to the lady, trying to handover a CD full of JPG PPTs that I wanted on stamps. I was there to create my own stamps! But ofcourse, if everything went as planned, Uncle Murphy and his law would be redundant. His law loves me! I was very politely told that I have to place my order online, pay for it and come to the PO 2 weeks later only to pick it up! And no, she wasn't aware of any exceptions. Not to give up easily, I asked her for directions to the library. I walked as fast as i could.

The library was huge. I'm telling you - Swedes love to read. During the entire 20 minutes for which I had the internet, the PO website was unavailable! Damn Murphy's law!

Disappointed, I decided to walk around the rest of the city center. The police station caught my attention. It looked more like a hotel than a police station. From the street, I could see fancy, modern interiors with lots of glass and soft lighting. Hardly, the atmosphere for a police station. My mind started picturing policewomen with their feet up, filing their nails while the policemen kept busy at their Xbox. They must be the most bored police personnel in the whole world given the fact that the crime rate in Mariehamn is almost non-existent!


If you've been to America, you'll understand what huge parking-lots mean. Have you seen those endless spaces outside of prime outlets and big supermarkets marked out for cars to park? Well.. Mariehamn has its own answer to such a vast parking lot, only much larger! And it is in water rather than land. Endless stretches of boats parked alongside its shores, is an easy part of Åland's landscape!


An acquittance timed it perfectly and called me just then and suggested that I join her and her 3 friends in her speedboat to one of the islands in the archipelago. And that's what I did. Head out on a speedboat to one of the many uninhabited island. The shoreline on this island was amazing. It was a mix of blue water, green moss and red rocks. I learnt later from Per, that the red rocks were the reason for the red in the flag of Åland. We decided to walk along the shore of the island and covered it entirely in just under 2 hours. I cannot recall the name of the island, but it reminded me of all the Famous Five books that I had read.


Oh btw, whilst on the way back, I learnt a few lessons on fishing (the hard way!!). One of the guys wanted to fish in these waters. So, here we were, 4 of us in a little boat eagerly waiting for some fish to take the bait. What does this guy do? He flung the line far into the sea in such an awkward manner that it swung around and landed on my ass! Ooooh! That was painful. I spent the rest of the trip back to Mariehamn, rubbing my hurting ass!

That evening, dinner was at an Ålander's house. Menu was Crayfish and crackers. Interesting ritual. Being, allergic to prawns, I didn't want to have too much of it but that didn't stop me from trying it the 'Swedish' way. Hmm. Interesting. Dinner was followed by a fantastic Karaoke session. I'm hooked now!

A while later, all of us left for a little pub called The Park where the group 'Sweet Emma and the Mood Swingers' were playing. It was a theme night and they were dressed like they were in the 50's and sang songs from that period. I didn't recognize a single song, except that they were all peppy and sounded pretty much like a non-rap version of 'Mambo no.5'! I told Per that there was something about Emma. Not a classic beauty or anything, but she had a certain character, a certain charishma that made her very attractive. The lead singer was definitely cute!

Day 2 was a trip to the Castle outside of Mariehamn. We watched an enactment of sword fighting, watched a man (with a great sense of humour) unchain himself, toured the castle, checked out Per's beautiful sailing boat and ended with a drink by the bay side, not very far from the Pommeran.

It was not until I was leaving Mariehamn, standing on the sundeck of the Viking Line, that I saw the countless skerries and the many islands that make up the Åland Islands. Apparently a total of 6500 of them! As i was sailing between these Islands, I could only think of George in Famous Five, who owned an Island. I can almost hear some of the locals say 'Hmm. What shall I buy this year? An Island maybe?"

Glendalough monastry

The photograph you see here will hold a special place in my album as on of the best shot scenes.

If you know me, you will also know that I'm majorly into ancient culture. (Anthropolgy, for all the experts). So, when the Wild Wikclow Tour suggested that there was an ancient monastic city that holds a lot of history, I was excited. It was little consolaiton for someone who didnt get a ticket to the Newgrange tour.

When I got there, I was in for a big disappointment. The tour ofcourse was just an exagerated advertisment. The so called 'monastic city' was a just a tower with no entrance, a few crumbled walls scattered around it and a fairly new cemetery. (The graves were as new as 1980).

True, the place is scenic, but, it is teeming with picnicers, tourists and tour buses. The beauty of the surroundings was the only saving grace for this trip.

Wicklow Mountains

I must admit that when I was on this tour, I was a bit upset. Inspite of the awesome beauty and the little whiskey on top of the very windy, Wicklow mountains, I still will not recommend this tour to anyone under 40. But then again, you are reading someone who has been to a lot of green treks in India. So, a bus ride around a scenic contryside without getting down and doing some serious trekking or hiking is totally tame to me. That's not how I'd like to explore this place.
I would defintely recommend a trip to this place.. but then try to do it on your own and at your own pace. It is only about 2 hours out of Dublin and is the site of a lot of Hollywood movies. Some of the popular ones made here were Braveheart, Excalibur and PS I love you.
If Bollywood looks beyond Switzerland for song shoots, this place would soon become popular.












5 Things that make the Guiness Lager

For all you you beer guzzlers and great fans of the dark Guiness Lager, here's the secret behind its 'flavour'.










Big deal!! Guiness still tastes like water mixed with burnt saw dust!!

Signs that brought a smile

I smiled, I clicked and here I share!



Nah.. this is not a rude sign put up by a concerned citizen regarding the 'type' of population in Stockholm. If you read it in Swedish, it simply says end of Sale!!

2) Ask the Irish how to mix warnings with humour! Here's 2:
I found this one, on the doors of every tram in Dublin

Here's one for the litter bug! (Not that it is working, considering how dirty the city still is!)

Friday, July 25, 2008

Mass bunking

So.. you've heard of mass bunking in school and college right? Oh, well.. you've done it too! I did it a couple of times in college and have been marched off to the principal's office the next day. Nah... this post is not about how we had a good time on our way to the principal's office. But it is to ask if have you seen it happening at work?
No? Welcome to Sweden!
The last 2 weeks, I am working with just 10 colleagues in the department, 4 of whom disappear on Fridays. So, on that day, there are just 6 people.
How many people are in my department, otherwise, you ask?
80!!!!!!
It's summer vacation! And custom demands that you disappear at the start of July and re-appear at the end of August. During these weeks make sure that -
- You don't fall sick as the office doctor/nurse is on vacation
- You don't feel hungry coz the office restaurant is closed
- You don't need access cards as the person concerned is on vacation
- You don't use the dustbin too much as cleaners are on vacation. (But.. this is Sweden and you know their obsession with cleanliness, right? So, we do have a temp staff who comes in the morning and disappears in the morning).
- You don't use the paper shredder as the temp cleaner doesnt know it exists.
- You don't talk too loud as your voice might echo through the building.
- You don't forget to apologise to the dozing colleague because your telephone woke him up.

Glad Semester!

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Pretty Woman

Many a times, I’ve wondered, what it was about Swedish women that gave them such beauty. Especially the ones in their 30s. (Teenagers are terrible here too!) It’s not just the Scandinavian genes that make them picture perfect. But there exists a ‘quality’, that makes them very attractive. It’s probably their calm, unself-conscious persona that reflects a combination of self-assurance, independence and a non-judgemental upbringing.
That is probably the answer to their aura.
Hopefully, I should get there!

Who said reading habits were dead?

Swedish Newspapers must carry the most gripping stories and spell binding articles in the world. How else can you explain one guy picking up all four newspapers laid out on the plane, for a journey that would last only one hour?
Or that every commuter whether he/she is on a plane, train, bus or taxi is engrossed in a newspaper?
I sympathise with the Swedish public transport service. They arrange seats in buses and trains facing each other in an attempt to get the Swedes to socialise but looks like those efforts are going down the drain!

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

The Irish embassy in Stockholm rocks!

OK.. here is the story of the most unorganised way in which I went to a consulate and still got a visa! It happens only in Sweden.
Here's a list of all the things that I did which would have resulted in a sure-shot reject (or a 'come-back- tomorrow' line) for a Visa but didnt!
  1. I call the Consulate half hour before closing time, tell them that I want to apply today for a Visa but cannot come until half hour after closing time.
  2. I call her 25 minutes after closing time and ask for directions from the Metro station
  3. I call her again when I reach the doorstep, wait for instructions, ring the doorbell, only for her to patiently explain, that I've rung the wrong doorbell, since she didnt hear the buzz at her office. (The embassy had rented a small apartment in an old (but very pretty) building where you have to buzz to get in if you don't have a key)
  4. She's waiting for me (and me only) 29 minutes after closing time when I entered the reception.
  5. I pass an incomplete application for a Visa, (one line even with a wrong entry!) over the counter, only for her to patiently explain that I need to specify my gender, marital status, home address and email ID
  6. I fill it up, hand it over and tell her that I made a small mistake. She looks at the mistake and simply strikes it off!
  7. "Can you get the Invite with a signature on it?" she asks. I look at her flustered. If she's frustrated, I don't see it.
  8. "The visa fee is 570 crowns", she says. I hand her my maestro, only to be told that they don't accept cards.
  9. She hands me a pretty embassy business card, writes down a number and says "Here you are. That's our bank account number. Transfer the money tomorrow. You can use the internet to do it".
  10. She accepted the application! She actually did! The sweety!

Then...

Yes...there's more.

  1. She asks me to call her on Monday and then come and pick up the Visa.
  2. I forget to call her on Monday coz I'm burried in work. I get a friendly call on Tuesday, asking me to come and pick up the passport!!!!

    Man.. look what an interesting combo is the Irish 'take-it-easy' policy and the Swedish 'Always polite' attitude!

Kudos!

Cleanliness is next to Godliness

**Warning** Shitty post ahead!

Not that I wanted to write about this, but, really, Swedes do take cleanliness a bit too seriously!
- I've seen older women pick up 'bits of paper lying on the ground', and throw it into the nearest dustbin.
- I've seen lots of women, scooping up the poop of their dog in parks and on streets
- I saw one woman who acutally waited until her dog was finished, scooped up the poop and then sorta 'dusted' off her dog as well.
- One monday morning, workers at the Metro station were busy getting rid of a new, nasty graffitti painted on one of the walls after an apparently rowdy weekend.
- Dustbins in houses can be really small, suggesting that they don't like trash lying around the house for too long!
- Swedes normally have indoor shoes (which they would carry in their bags!), outdoor shoes, walking shoes and working shoes! They would not wear shoes inside the house. (Just like Indians!)
If you want to learn how to..
Be friendly without invading someone's space, go to Åland
Be effusive to strangers, go to USA

Monday, July 7, 2008

21 things I learnt in Sweden

  1. Queuing comes naturally to Swedes.
  2. They cannot understand the word “exception”
  3. “Flygbussar” is actually, a bus that takes you to the airport. (It's not SMS language for flying buses!)
  4. No, Gods do not live in warehouses in Sweden. That’s how they spell ‘goods’.
  5. Thy shall not judge the girl standing behind the food counter at IKEA, under a sign that says ‘Glass slut.’ It simply means they’ve run out of ice cream.
  6. Don't you dare wrinkle your nose at a Swede's dog pooping on the street. Wait 2 secs and watch the owner whip out a garbage bag and scoop it right up!!
  7. ATMs are used only for withdrawal of cash.
  8. Shops close at six.
  9. Probably the only European country where alcohol is sold at government shops at a high tax. (Sounds like TamilNadu?)
  10. Swimming is taught as part of school curriculum.
  11. When a Swede draws in her breath, she’s not shocked at what you’ve just said but is actually agreeing with what you’ve said.
  12. They are good listeners. (You can rant about what a horrible day you’ve had for half hour non-stop and they will patiently listen to you without interrupting.)
  13. They are bad responders. (The response after the half hour rant could be ‘oh?!’)
  14. No, they are not insensitive. (They might offer you their place in the sun, hoping it would cheer you up.)
  15. You commute to office in the Metro with ears to your ipod and eyes to the newspapers.
  16. You don’t make eye contact with strangers. Small talk? You are nuts!
  17. But they would hold the hands of perfect strangers and do the frog dance around a decorated pole during festivals.
  18. They love the Sun.
  19. Swedes love exercise. If a Swede says ‘walkable distance’, its good to ask how many minutes’ walk it is.
  20. And if they say 10 minutes, its good to know that they walk really fast.
  21. Beware of old people.
  22. It’s hard to fight with a Swede. They are non-confrontational. (Mostly!)

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Gamla Stan - the Nucleus of Stockholm

What better place to start your tour around the city than to do it from the place where it all started. The birthplace of Stockholm, which has been allowed to retain its old world charm and mix with the practicalities of the modern world.
It was the Old Town’s intriguing skyline of black-roofed, yellow, red and green buildings that got me started on this unhurried, soaking-in-history, 3 hour walk around tiny Gamla Stan on a sunny, summer afternoon.
I knew where to start from. Stepped out of the metro station, turned left, gave the postal museum a miss (today is not museum day) and walked straight ahead to find this circular courtyard. I couldn’t quite decide if the housing was old or new.
But when I walked into the narrow alley on the opposite side, I knew I was walking into history. It was Stenbastugränd, the oldest street in Stockholm. The street itself, extremely narrow, is paved with stone slabs in the centre and cobble stones on the sides. I found one of the iron doors in the street open. A smart landlord had rented the basement of this old building to a tattoo parlour. Down the staircase, I went, into a dimly lit cavernous room. The floors and ceilings were uneven and the room didn’t really have any particular shape. Just some random divisions. The owner took one look and guessed I wasn’t potential business and went right back to his customer sitting in front of him after an effusive greeting.

After a quick unauthorised tour in that basement, I walk out of ___ and into Vastalagatan, easily the most busiest of shopping areas for tourists. While the upper half of the buildings, on either side of the road, have all maintained their ancient facades, the lower half is all converted into shops. What struck me were the doors, all of them in its ancient glory.


The entire street has souvenir shops selling some interesting things. The ones that I found most appealing were a reindeer bookmark made from leather, a little doll dressed up in the Swedish national costume of yellow and blue, sitting on a Dala horse (perfect gift! Can't get any Swedish than this!) and a Batik printed (yes, yes!) reindeer wall hanging. (Perfect Indian-Swedish mix, huh?). There was one particular shop, that looked less cluttered and had a lot more things that I'd want to buy (you'll have to leave your email on the comment section for the name of the shop. We don't want free advertisement, you see!). And if you are a collector, there are 2 shops that might interest you. There was one shop which was selling handmade greeting cards with embossed dolls wearing the different regional costumes of Sweden. (Reminded me of how we wear the Sari in different parts of India). Real cloth had been used to make these dolls. The 2nd shop sells photos of Old cities, mostly Stockhoolm. The prices are affordable and will cost you a lot less than what you'd have to shell out for a tiny Dala horse.

There was a shop selling Trolls which totally brought a smile to my face! There was even a life-sized witch doll sitting at an antique sewing machine, complete with a crooked nose and pointed hat! Hey, aren't Trolls associated with Iceland?
You can even get your caricature or portrait made for a couple of hundred kroners while you are shopping.
Btw, I discovered a 2nd hand, comic book shop in one of the many narrow alleys, off Vastagatan. What would have otherwise turned into a messy storehouse, now, has entire wall shelves of old Comic books. All of them Swedish and all of them quite old. You can buy a copy for 10kr.

Btw, what really was interesting about Gamla Stan were the alleys themselves. They seemed a piece of art. Some of them like the Kåkbrinken were a steep climb, some had rows of steps that led to a higher street, some led you down street level, into spaces that have been converted to restaurants and some with low roofs leading to the waterfront. On a wintery day, this place could be the perfect setting for a Harry Potter movie.






After the amazing maze of narrow alleys, I take a quick peek into Den Gyldene Freden, apparently one the oldest restaurants in the area dating back to 1722. This is when I turned into Österlånggatan that leads to the Royal Palace.

I’m gonna skip the royal palace for another day. Time to head home.

Is this the city of which they said, 'The perfection of beauty, A joy to all the earth '

If you thought this is a plan from an architect's ad campaign, you are wrong. This is reality. A recent bus strike in Stockholm, forced me to take a long winded, 40 minute walk to the metro station. Though I was pissed off the first morning that I had to walk so much, the evening was different. I decided to walk "between the houses" rather than take the main road. And that was when I discovered that I lived in a very beautiful locality. The pic above, is the block behind our building. What a beauty!


Here's the path I took to reach the metro station.

And now that I leave the house earlier than 7.10, I even get to spot some animal life. Deer, rabbits.. The strangest thing is, the hares are just not afraid of you. They stay right where they do, even when you are just inches away from them. And check out the fruit bearing trees to the left.

The Midsummer Night's Dream

So, there I was, all excited about being able to try out one of the Swedish folklore tradition, made famous by Shakespeare in one of his comedies.

So, tradition adivses that all unmarried girls (and boys, too, if you will) do this. Just before you go to bed, you wash your face, go out to the fields and look for 7 different types of flowers. You have to pick these flowers, quietly, without speaking a word. Once you've got them all, you put them under your pillow and go to sleep. If you do this, you will dream of your future husband!

Now, you know why I was excited. I did exactly that, except a small deviation. (I couldn't help it!). I picked the flowers, put them in a plastic shot glass filled with water, showed them off to everyone, researched their names and qualities, took loads of pictures, partied a bit, and then went up to bed, put them under the pillow and went to sleep.

No dreams! Not one single of them, leave alone of the 'husband' kind.
So, I go down to the breakfast table, the next morning and complain to the Swedish friend.
"Well..?" i enquired.
"You were supposed to go straight to bed after you pick the flowers" she admonished.
"Now, now. You said I shouldnt talk during the picking of the flowers, not after." I objected.
"Oh?" she said.

So there.. no husband for me this year too! (Sigh!) Perhaps the next midsommer...



Thursday, July 3, 2008

Boogey gal

Here's how I scared the wits out of 2 different but unsuspecting, Swede motorists at the same time.

One was the girl who I was travelling with, to Dalarna and the other was a poor soul who seemed to be speeding away from Dalarna.

Now, the foreigner in me, was so struck my the Swedish countryside that I had to ask the girl to stop, so I can admire the beauty. And what do I do? Get out, breathe in the air, look with awe at the beautiful landscape and then I spot a car in the distance. I whip out the camera, walk to the middle of the road and clicked a picture. That's the first picture you see below. When I turned around, I saw my Swedish acquitance freeze in the middle of drinking some water, just staring at me in shock! Wonderful photo op! I clicked and that's the 2nd pic!

So.. whadja think?





The horrified girl!